Haarlem is easy to love.
This quintessentially Dutch city offers picturesque streets lined with medieval buildings, serene canal strolls and world-class museums in one cosy package. And as it’s just 20 minutes by train from the bright lights of Amsterdam, Haarlem makes a great home base.
If you want to stay somewhere exuding small-town warmth near the Dutch capital, Haarlem could be for you. It was a great choice for me and I spent four nights here, using it as a jumping-off point for a day trip to the stunning Zuid-Kennemerland National Park.
Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover or simply looking to explore a new city, here is my pick of the best things to do in Haarlem.
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How Long Do You Need in Haarlem?
If you’re short on time, a day trip from Amsterdam will cover major highlights like the Grote Markt, Frans Hals Museum and a canal tour. I have included a suggested 1-day itinerary later in this guide.
However, I recommend spending two days in Haarlem. This will allow you to explore the city at a more relaxed pace, giving you time to explore additional sites like the excellent Teylers Museum.
Best Things to Do in Haarlem
1. Wallow in the splendour of the Grote Markt
Market Square (Grote Markt) is Haarlem’s stunning centrepiece. Ten streets converge on this delightful pedestrianised zone – watch out for cyclists! – which is lined with some of the city’s most important landmarks.
These include the 14th-century Town Hall and Meat Market (Vleeshal), a splendid Flemish Renaissance building that now serves up modern art instead of a side of lamb.
A statue of L.J. Coster, who Haarlemers say invented modern printing, watches over the square. Take that Guttenberg!
2. Do a self-guided tour of St. Bavo Church
Commonly called the Great Church, or Grote Kerk, this 15th-century Gothic church dominates Grote Markt. It is famous for its enormous 18th-century pipe organ that wowed Handel and Mozart.
More unusual highlights include a replica of Foucault’s Pendulum and the “Dog Whipper’s Chapel”. This takes its name from a sculpted relief depicting a man whipping a not-too-thrilled dog. In the Middle Ages, a man was tasked with disciplining unruly dogs.
The choir is a masterpiece of medieval craftsmanship and the final resting place of Frans Hals, Haarlem’s favourite son.
At either end of the brass and wood barrier that prevents you from getting too close, there are carvings of the so-called pillar biters. These represent believers who chomped into the pillars in the throes of devotion, yet whose home lives were less than holy.
This is the only church I have visited with a café in one of its chapels. Another fun fact: the floor of Grote Kerk is made up entirely of about 1500 gravestones.
Opening hours: Monday – Saturday, 10 am to 5 pm. Check current opening hours here.
Entrance fee: A small admission fee applies. You will be given a helpful leaflet with a map and brief information.
3. Take a canal cruise
My guesthouse hosts recommended this excellent canal cruise. Over 75 minutes, we were taken on a relaxing journey along Haarlem’s river and canals with generous doses of history and entertainment along the way.
I went with Haarlem Canal Tours, who operate cruises 3 – 5 times a day, Tuesday to Sunday from April to November. They set off from Spaarne, Haarlem’s oldest open canal, and the cruise includes the scenic Bakenessergracht, the Singels (the city moats) and Nieuwe Gracht (New Canal).
You can find out more information and book your cruise here.
4. Nurture your artistic soul at the Frans Hals Museum
I am a massive art fangirl and can honestly say this is one of the best art museums I have visited. I spent three hours here!
Frans Hals (1582 – 1666) was the foremost portrait painter of the 17th Century Dutch Golden Age, renowned for his realistic depictions of everyday people. In this excellent museum, you are eyeball-to-eyeball with Haarlemers of the past; brewers and preachers, soldiers and housewives.
Not all of the museum’s paintings are by Hals, and paintings are hung thematically (e.g. Mannerism, nudes, Haarlem). I liked this one:
But his paintings are the standouts, especially his Civil Guard paintings displayed in one room.
Your visit starts with a superb 15-minute introductory film about the artist and his work. An audioguide is included with your ticket. I had lunch in the museum’s lovely courtyard café under a fragrant wisteria tree.
5. Dive into the past at Teylers Museum
Another highlight of my Haarlem trip was this fabulous museum, the oldest in the Netherlands. It’s one for you if you are a science buff.
Established in 1784, Teylers Museum is home to an extraordinary collection of fossils, scientific instruments, books, drawings and coins. I loved that the exhibits were in old-fashioned wooden cases with typewritten cards.
The museum owes its existence to Pieter Teyler (1702 – 17788). He was a wealthy Haarlem merchant who believed that spreading knowledge about art and science would lead to a better society, and bequeathed money to build the museum.
The largest flatplate electrostatic generator in the world is the collection’s pride and joy.
Teyler’s original collection is housed in the beautiful Oval Room, a glass cabinet with gemstones at its centre.
Rooms in the museum have been lovingly restored and have period furnishings.
This is another Haarlem museum with a lovely café.
6. Take a look at De Adriaan Windmill
This old-time windmill is worth a peek. It is close to the train station (and you can jump off the canal cruise boat here).
But appearances can be deceptive. It is a 2002 replica of a windmill that burnt down in 1932.
I skipped climbing the vertiginous stairs to the top.
7. Stroll along Bakenessergracht
Running from the Spaarne to the Nieuwe Gracht, Bakenessergracht is one of Haarlem’s prettiest canals. This serene waterway is lined with trees and traditional Dutch buildings and is crossed by three bridges: the Wildemansbrug, Begijnebrug and the Korte Jansbrug.
8. Hunt for the Hofjes
Hofjes are courtyards surrounded by almshouses providing homes for poor, unmarried or widowed women. They were founded by wealthy members of society hoping to earn a place in Heaven in return for their charity.
There are 21 Hofjes in Haarlem and most are free to visit between 10 am and 5 or 6 pm, Monday to Saturday. I managed to peek inside Teylershofje (Koudenhorn 64), Proveniershuis (Grote Houtstraat 142D) and Hofje van Bakenes (Wijde Appelaarsteeg 11F), the oldest of the bunch, established in 1395.
In case you’re wondering, to be eligible for a place in one of these Hofje you need to be a woman over 60 who has lived in Haarlem for at least six years.
9. Learn about Corrie ten Bloom’s story
The ten Bloom family sheltered Dutch Jews in this house during WWII. Their story was popularised in Corries ten Bloom’s book The Hiding Place, which was made into a movie in 1975.
Corrie ten Bloom House can only be visited on a tour which takes place from Tuesday to Saturday. Reserve a place at least five days in advance here.
10. Visit St. Bavo’s Cathedral
Confusingly, there are two St. Bavos in town.
The cathedral was mostly built between 1895 and 1906 to replace Sint-Bavokerk, that had been converted to Protestantism from Catholicism in 1578. It was designed as a series of buildings, each a distinctive space.
The modern stained-glass windows allow light to flood in. Highlights include the Mary Window, Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the tiles in St. Aloysius Chapel and the glorious baptistery.
Climb the tower for panoramic views of Haarlem’s streets and canals. It’s not a strenuous climb but you might need to think twice if you are claustrophobic.
There’s also an interesting small museum, detailing the history of the cathedral, and an adjoining café.
11. Bargain hunt at one of Haarlem’s marvellous markets
If you like mooching around markets you’re in for a treat. The biggest and best-known market is held in Grote Markt on Mondays and Saturdays, selling all manner of things from loaves of bread to tasty trinkets.
I liked the flea market on Botermarkt. It operates on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, each day having a different focus.
12. Sample the local brew at Jopen
This unique brewery inside an old church serves 20 beers, displayed on menus on giant screens. Jopen is at Gedempte Voldersgracht 2 and also offers a small selection of light bites.
Choose your brew and size – 15cl, 25cl or 50cl – and your friendly water will bring it to your table. Non-alcoholic beers are available.
Cheers!
13. Pick your favourite Haarlem street
Haarlem has achingly picturesque streets, including the so-called Golden Streets (Gouden Straatjes) near the Grote Markt. This is the city’s prime shopping area and is perfect if you are up for a spot of retail therapy.
I’m not a shopper and preferred the quieter streets away from this area.
14. Stop by Nieuwe Kerk (New Church)
This 17th-century church is one of the most important Protestant churches in the Netherlands. Nieuwe Kerk was the first stone Protestant church in Haarlem and its boxy design is complemented by an ornate tower by Lieven de Key.
You’ll find it on Nieuwe Kerksplein.
15. Take a day trip to the beach
Escape into nature with a day trip to South Kennemerland National Park (National Park Zuid-Kennemerland). It has hiking and cycling trails, rolling dunes, lush forests and serene lakes and is an easy and rewarding day trip from Haarlem.
I caught bus #81 to the Koevlak entrance of the National Park and followed the clearly marked trail. Lunch was at Bloomingdale Beach before catching the bus back to Haarlem.
Tips for Spending a Day in Haarlem
Don’t try to do too much if you have just a day in Haarlem. I recommend following this broad itinerary:
As ever, adjust this to your tastes and interests. Haarlem is compact and easily explored on foot.
Avoid visiting on Mondays when many of Haarlem’s tourist attractions are closed.
Getting There
Getting to Haarlem from Amsterdam is a breeze. Frequent trains from Amsterdam Central Station take about 20 minutes.
Haarlem Train Station is within easy walking distance of the town centre.
Amsterdam and Haarlem are also connected by buses 80 and 346.
Where to Stay in Haarlem
I cannot recommend Malts Hotel highly enough. Henk & Annemarie treat their guests like old friends and are delighted to share their wealth of local knowledge.
It is centrally located and my room was large, airy and comfortable. The breakfasts with proudly sourced local produce were excellent and there was an honesty bar and tea and coffee in the kitchen.
Here are a few alternatives if this doesn’t meet your needs:
B&B Het Hart van Haarlem
Other travellers love this centrally-located bed & breakfast. One of the rooms has a kitchenette.
RiverSide Suite
If you are hankering after river views, take a look at this gorgeous apartment. Breakfast is available for an additional charge.
Where to Eat
Here are a few places I ate in Haarlem and liked:
Restaurant Zuidam (Scheepmakersdijk 2A)
Located next to the windmill overlooking the river. Take a seat on the terrace and enjoy the view.
Ti Bisou Crêpes Boutique (Korte Houtstraat 4)
I had a lovely lunch at this small and friendly restaurant that specialises in crêpes
The Golden Bull (Zijlstraat 39)
Service was a little slow at this steakhouse but it was friendly and the steak was superb.
Miyagi and Jones (Zijlstraat 56-58)
This trendy restaurant next to the Malts Hotel serves small plates of Asian fusion food.
Where to next?
And that’s a wrap. Whether you spend a day in Haarlem or a week, I hope this article helps you nail the best things to see.
If you have found this helpful, take a look at some of my other Netherlands guides before leaving:
- What to Do in Delft in One Day
- A Self-Guided Walking Tour of Leiden
- One Day in Rotterdam
- Top 10 Tips for Visiting Keukenhof Gardens
Happy travels!
About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.