The Hida Express: A  Slow Train Through Japan’s Winter Wonderland

The Hida Express, officially called the Wide View Hida, is one of Japan’s most scenic train routes.

Operating between Nagoya and Takayama, with some services extending to Toyama, it trundles through the heart of the Japanese Alps. With its expansive windows and sleek design, the Hida Express transforms a simple way of getting from A to B into a spectacular journey through Japan’s Alpine heart.

It had been on my bucket list for some time so I was delighted to include it in my Japan winter itinerary, travelling from Nagoya to Takayama. In this article, I’ll give you the lowdown on the train, its route, what to expect, top tips and all the practical information you’ll need to make this trip happen.

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RIDING THE HIDA EXPRESS
shiny grey exterior of hida express train with a logo saying hybrid

KEY TAKEAWAYS

  • Limited Express train from Nagoya to Takayama and Toyama
  • One of Japan’s most scenic train journeys
  • Operates ten times a day (one daily service to/from Osaka / Kyoto)
  • Seat reservation highly recommended

Introducing the Wide View Hida Express Train

Operated by JR Central, the Hida Express is a Limited Express service specifically designed for scenic travel. Its standout feature is its “Wide View” design, carriages with large windows that let you fully enjoy the passing scenery.

The train primarily runs from Nagoya to Toyama with some services terminating at Takayama. It offers ordinary or Green Car (first-class) seating.

wide hida express route map
Wide Hida Express: Route Map

My Experience of the Wide View Hida Express

I travelled in ordinary class from Nagoya to Takayama on a crisp February day. The journey time was 2 hour 30 minutes.

people walking along concourse of nagoya station japan
Nagoya Station is vast. The Hida Express leaves from platform 11.

The Hida Express train had eight carriages (cars). Car 1 was the Green Car. The remaining cars offered reserved seating for ordinary class passengers, except for car 4 which had non-reserved seats.

The train was squeaky clean, had comfortable seats with generous legroom, and accessible toilets. There were luggage racks at the end of the carriage and ample storage space above the seat.

red-orange seats with grey armrests in a carriage on the wide hida limited express train

Decent free wifi was available (user registration required). Thanks to charging points under the armrests, my devices didn’t run out of juice.

Screens at the ends of the carriage provided English language information. There was also a commentary on key spots along the line.

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We set off on time, rattling through the suburbs of Nagoya along the old pre-Shinkansen Tokaido Main Line. At Gifu, twenty minutes into the journey, the train switched to the Takayama Line, which connects the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Japan.

The Hida Express passed blue-green mountain rivers, forested hillsides, settlements that looked like Japanese model towns and even a hilltop castle. A highlight was the national monument of Hisui Gorge, featuring giant potholes carved by water erosion

a view across a lush paddy field towards a forested hillside
a glacial mountain stream with reflections of clouds and hillside

Weaving its way through a series of rough-hewn mountain tunnels, the train reached the onsen town of Gero where many people hopped off. For the final stretch into Takayama, the landscape became increasingly snowy, a sensational winter wonderland.

snow covered tracks at takayama railway station in japan
Arriving at Takayama Station
grey and red train at platform at takayama station

My Top Travel Tips

  • Make a seat reservation: Do you want to stand for much of the journey? I didn’t think so. This route has become popular with international travellers so don’t join the scrum for a seat in the one non-reserved car.
  • Wear layers: The train was super-heated when I travelled in winter. Don’t sweat your way through the Alps; wear clothes you can remove.
  • Bring your own food and drink: Food wasn’t available on board on my journey. Buy a bento box at the train station before you board the train.
  • Don’t stress about which side of train to sit: There are fabulous views from both sides of the carriage, and thanks to those huge windows, you can easily look out of the window on the opposite side.
a blond haired middle-aged sitting in a train

Key Stops to Explore

  • Gifu: A hub of cultural attractions, including Gifu Castle.
  • Gero: Frequently listed among Japan’s top hot spring resorts, this is my pick for a relaxing stopover.
  • Takayama: Known for Edo period streets, Takayama is a window into traditional Japan.
  • Shirakawago: Although it requires a bus ride from Takayama, this village is worth the detour for its distinctive gassho-zukuri farmhouses.
a snow covered valley filled with wooden framed a-shaped houses in shirakawago in japan
Shirakawa-go

Practical Information

shiny grey exterior of hida express train with a logo saying hybrid

The Hida Limited Express train runs ten times a day between Nagoya and Takayama, with some services continuing to Toyama. There are a few additional services at the weekend. Check timetables at Navitime.

There is one round-trip service per day between Osaka / Kyoto and Takayama.

The service is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. If you are wondering if it is worth buying a train pass, check my review of the JR Pass.

I made my ticket reservation via Klook before leaving the UK which was quick and easy. Alternatively, buy your ticket at any Japanese rail station when you arrive in the country.

a small settlement of japanese houses by the side of a snow covered railway track

Ready to Ride the Wide Hida Express?

The Limited Express Hida is your best bet for reaching Takayama and Shirakawa-go and an opportunity to experience Japan’s natural beauty from the comfort of a train. It will be a journey you will remember.

Have you travelled on this scenic train? Share your experience in the comments to inspire others to do the same.

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About Bridget

Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.

Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.

To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.

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