Discovering Obuse: A Perfect Stop After Visiting The Snow Monkeys

A day trip to the Snow Monkey Park in Jigokudani is a magical experience but the journey doesn’t have to end there. The lovely little town of Obuse is well worth a short detour on the way back to Nagano. I arrived in the early afternoon, grabbed a quick lunch and then did my sightseeing.

snow covered path between wall and wooden buildings in obuse japan

As a massive Hokusai fangirl, it was a must-see for me. Katsushika Hokusai is the famed ukiyo-e (woodblock print) artist, best known for The Great Wave off Kanagawa. He worked in Obuse during his final years, creating several masterpieces.

The Hokusai-kan Museum is Obuse’s star attraction. It showcases a range of Hokusai’s works, including paintings, prints and multicoloured nishiki-e “brocade pictures”.

long corridor in Hokusai museum in obuse japan hung with copies of his prints

My highlight was the Festival Carts Exhibition Room, which displays these carts with ceiling paintings by Hokusai. The Higashimachi neighbourhood cart features the Dragon and Phoenix, which he painted when he was 85.

vibrant painting of a dragon on a red background — *Dragon*, Hokusiai

vibrant painting of a phoenix on a green background — *Phoenix*, Hokusai

Hokusai was 86 when he painted Masculine Waves and Feminine Waves on the Kanmachi neighbourhood cart

There are excellent audiovisual presentations which provide insights into Hokusai’s time in Obuse. This includes the relationship with his patron Takai Kozan, a wealthy local merchant and art enthusiast who supported the artist’s work. The former home of Takai Kozan now houses a museum dedicated to his life and work, the Takai Kozan Memorial Museum.

If you haven’t had your fill of Hokusai, visit Gansho-in, located on the outskirts of Obuse. The main hall of this Buddhist temple features another Hokusai masterpiece, a magnificent ceiling painting of a phoenix. However, you are looking at a 30-minute walk to get there.

Obuse is also famous for its kuri (chestnuts), which have been cultivated in the region for centuries. Cafes in the town serve no end of chestnut delicacies, from kuri steamed with rice to chestnut soft-serve ice cream.

In addition to its artistic and culinary heritage, Obuse exudes Edo-era charm. The town centre is compact and walkable, with traditional wooden buildings housing cafes, shops and galleries. Lined with cobblestones and chestnut trees, Chestnut Lane (Kuri no Komichi) is a particularly picturesque spot.

wooden gateway into courtyard with traditional japanese buildings

pretty street lined with traditional japanese buildings with mountains in background

courtyard in winter in front of traditional japanese building

How to Get to Obuse

From the Snow Monkey Park

Take the local bus from the Snow Monkey Park to Yudanaka Station (approximately 15 minutes). Then from Yudanaka Station, board a train on the Nagano Dentetsu Line to Obuse Station (around 30 minutes).

red and cream bus waiting outside railway station — Take the bus to Yudanaka Station

interior of a local japanese train with a long row of seats covered in red frabric — and then board the Nagano Dentetsu Line

It’s an easy ten-minute walk from Obuse train station to the town centre.

To Nagano

From Obuse Station, take the Nagano Dentetsu Line to Nagano Station. The journey takes around 30 minutes and trains run frequently.

I recommend buying the Snow Monkey Pass. This is valid for two days and includes one admission to the Jigokudani Monkey Park and free travel on local trains and buses. You can buy it from the counter at Nagano Station.