Are you considering visiting Fort William without a car? Thanks to its good bus and rail links, Fort Bill (as it is affectionately called) is the perfect base to explore the West Highlands by public transport, including historic Glen Coe.
Hit the ground running with my tried and tested 3-day Fort William itinerary. At the end of the article, you’ll find practical tips for planning your trip, including recommendations for places to stay and eat.
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FORT WILLIAM CAR-FREE ITINERARY AT A GLANCE
DAY 1: Glen Nevis Walk, West Highland Museum
DAY 2: Jacobite steam train to Mallaig
DAY 3: Glen Coe
OTHER PLACES TO VISIT
- Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge
- Steall Falls
- Caledonian Canal
- Inverlochy Castle
- Ben Nevis Distillery
- Ben Nevis
BEST TIME TO VISIT: Year-round
GETTING AROUND: Fort William is easily explored on foot. For adventures further afield, take a bus or train.
My Experience of Fort William
Hand on heart, Fort William is not the most attractive Scottish town I have visited. Although it has a pleasant main street, its waterfront has been wrecked by traffic roaring along the adjacent dual carriageway.
However, the town is surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery that the Scottish Highlands has to offer. Add to that Fort William’s excellent transport links, which place other destinations, near and far, within easy reach if you are touring Scotland without a car.
For these reasons, Fort William was an essential part of my Scotland itinerary. I spent four nights here, using it as a base to visit Glen Coe and ride the Jacobite Steam Train.
Suggested 3-Day Fort William Itinerary
Day 1 (Morning): Walk in Glen Nevis
Start your first day in Fort William with a sensational walk. The 6-mile Cow Hill circular path should take you 2 – 3 hours to complete and promises unforgettable views of Fort William, Loch Linnhe, Loch Eil, the Ben Nevis range and Glen Nevis.
Although there are some steep ascents and descents this is an easy-moderate walk. Signposted paths are good throughout, although there are a few stony sections.
I wore a pair of walking shoes but you could get away with doing the walk in a decent pair of trainers. A walking pole would be useful for the descents but is not strictly necessary.
This walk loops around Cow Hill, where local people used to graze their cattle. To reach the start of the walk, make your way to Fort William’s Leisure Centre on the road heading east out of town. The path begins at the foot of the hillside behind the leisure centre.
Climb through deciduous woodland of mainly birch trees before reaching open heathland with fine views of Fort William and Loch Linnhe. I did this walk in early June when the landscape was ablaze with gorse, rhododendrons, foxgloves and bluebells.
It’s not long before the path curves into the magnificent Glen Nevis and into a forest plantation of larch and spruce.
Day 1 (Afternoon): West Highland Museum, Fort William
Located in the heart of the town, the West Highland Museum is one of the best things to do in Fort William when it’s raining. This delightfully old-fashioned museum – I loved the typewritten information cards – traces the history of the West Highlands.
Arranged over eight rooms, the collection begins with a section dedicated to the World War II Commandos who received their famously tough training in nearby Lochaber. Other highlights include a birching table, treasures from the Spanish Armada, a collection of ancient charms, and gifts from Queen Victoria to her loyal servant John Brown.
But the main draw of the West Highland Museum is its collection relating to the Jacobite rebellion and Bonnie Prince Charlie, familiar to anyone who’s seen a few episodes of Outlander. There are pieces of the Bonnie Prince’s kilt, quasi-religious relics that include a single hair, secret portraits, snuff boxes with his image and his death mask.
Day 2: The Jacobite steam train to Mallaig
Railway journeys don’t come more iconic than that travelled by The Jacobite steam train, also known as The Harry Potter Train.
This 41-mile section of the West Highland Line between Fort William and Mallaig takes in lochs, mountains and the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct. Its popularity has soared due to its appearance in the Harry Potter movies.
Leaving Fort William, The Jacobite crosses the Caledonian Canal past Neptune’s Staircase and continues its journey along the shores of Loch Eil. Forested valleys alight with purple rhododendrons herald the train’s approach to the superstar of the Fort William to Mallaig route: The Glenfinnan Viaduct.
The steam train passes Loch Eilt and Loch nan Uamh before making a brief stop at Arisaig, Britain’s most westerly railway station. In the distance, you should be able to spot the islands of Rum, Eigg and Muck and the white sand beaches of Skye.
Finally, the seagulls squawk their welcome as you reach Mallaig.
The Jacobite is an understandably popular day trip from Fort William and you will need to book it well in advance. Make your reservation via West Coast Railways.
READ THIS NEXT: Riding the Magical Harry Potter Train in Scotland
Day 3: Glen Coe
The final day of your Fort William itinerary is spent taking a day trip to Glen Coe. This spectacularly scenic glen is hugely popular with hikers, hillwalkers and mountaineers, and its moody beauty has secured its place as a location shoot for films including Skyfall and the Harry Potter franchise.
Glen Coe was the scene of one of the bloodiest reprisals of the Jacobite uprising, the Massacre of Glencoe in 1692. Learn more about this at the Glencoe Visitor Centre.
When you’re finished at the visitor centre, it’s time to hit one of the many walking trails that lace through Glen Coe. I recommend following one of the waymarked trails from Glencoe Visitor Centre or taking the easy River Coe walk that starts in Glencoe village and ends at Loch Leven next to Invercoe campsite.
There’s not much to detain you in Glencoe village. However, the Glencoe Folk Museum is worth a visit if you have an hour to spare (or if it’s chucking it down with rain).
Getting to Glen Coe from Fort William
There is no train station close to Glen Coe.
Glasgow-bound CityLink buses and the local Shiel Buses operate between Fort William and Glen Coe, stopping at the Glencoe crossroads (for Glencoe village). The CityLink buses also stop at the Glencoe Visitor Centre.
From Fort William, it’s an easy and scenic drive to Glen Coe along the A82.
READ THIS NEXT: The Best Day Trip from Fort William to Glencoe
More Things to Do in Fort William and Beyond
Visit the Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge
I stayed overnight in Spean Bridge, ten miles northeast of Fort William, en route to Inverness. However, it’s easy to visit Spean Bridge as a day trip from Fort William.
The main attraction in Spean Bridge is the Commando Memorial, a bronze sculpture of a group of soldiers commemorating those who trained at nearby Achnacarry.
Visit the Commando Memorial by taking a circular walk along a waymarked trail.
This starts near the Aonach Mòr Hotel in Spean Bridge and follows the River Spean to the remains of a former railway viaduct and the ruins of General Wade’s High Bridge. Built in 1736 over Spean Gorge, this was the site of the first skirmish of the 1745 Jacobite uprising, in which 11 loyalists saw off two companies of soldiers.
The path then follows a short section of Wade’s military road before cutting across moorland to the Commando Memorial.
Although there is a train station at Spean Bridge, there are only three services per day. Your best bet is to catch one of the many buses that stop at Spean Bridge (Shiels Buses or CityLink).
Walk along Steall Falls
If I had to pick another Glen Nevis walk, I’d plump for the Steall Falls hike. Considered one of the finest short walks in Scotland, this 4.5km walk should take around 90 minutes to complete.
The starting point of the walk is the Glen Nevis Car Park, seven miles southeast of Fort William. To get here by bus, take the seasonal N42 Shiels Bus service.
Stroll along the Caledonian Canal to Neptune’s Staircase
The Caledonian Canal connects Scotland’s east coast at Inverness to Coppach near Fort William on its west coast. Built by the great Scottish engineer Thomas Telford in the early 19th Century and around 60 miles in length, the Caledonian Canal links lochs with stretches of hand-dug canals.
Neptune’s Staircase, a dramatic flight of eight locks on the Caledonian Canal, is the longest staircase flight lock in Scotland. If you’re lucky, you’ll see boats move from one end of Neptune’s Staircase to the other (this takes approximately 90 minutes).
Given more time, I would have completed the easy 3-mile walk that follows the canal from Fort William to Neptune’s Staircase at Banavie. This walk should take around one hour.
Visit Inverlochy Castle
A little further northeast of Neptune’s Staircase are the ruins of Inverlochy Castle.
Built in the 13th Century by the Comyn family, Inverlochy Castle was abandoned when their sworn enemy, Robert the Bruce, ascended the Scottish throne. The castle was later reoccupied and was the scene of two bloody battles in 1431 and 1500. It was finally abandoned in 1654 and replaced by Fort William.
Inverlochy Castle is an extension of Neptune’s Staircase walk from Fort William. It is also served by local and CityLink buses.
Down a dram at Ben Nevis Distillery
Let’s face it; no trip to Scotland is complete without visiting a whisky distillery (I highly recommend the Oban Distillery).
The good news is that Fort William has a distillery, Ben Nevis Distillery, just under two miles northeast of Inverlochy Castle. It is open Monday to Friday year-round and on Saturday and Sunday in the summer months.
Climb Ben Nevis
For many, climbing Ben Nevis will be the number one reason to visit Fort William.
It takes between seven and nine hours, up and down, to climb Britain’s highest peak. Whilst you don’t need specialist equipment to scale Ben Nevis’s popular north face, it is a tough climb. In the latter section, steps give way to slippery shale and rocks, and visibility is frequently poor.
It’s not for me. Give me a whisky distillery any day.
Take a gondola ride up the Nevis range
Are you looking for spectacular views and clear mountain air but are not climbing Ben Nevis? Then why not take a gondola ride up Aonach Mòr, Scotland’s 8th-highest mountain?
It takes the gondola 15 minutes to ascend from the base station at 100m to the top gondola station at 650m. From the top station, there’s a choice of two easy walks or you can simply enjoy the view.
To reach the gondola station by bus, take the N41 Shiels Bus service (in the direction of Roybridge). The journey should take around 25 minutes from Fort William.
When to Visit Fort William
Fort William is a year-round destination.
To say that Scottish weather is unpredictable is putting it mildly, but visit between May and October for the best chance of dry(ish) days. In midsummer, there’s also the advantage of long days.
Take heed of an old Scandinavian saying “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes” and come prepared. Even if the forecast predicts sunny days, pack a waterproof, layers and a decent pair of waterproof shoes. Scotland is not known for heatwaves.
When I visited in June, the weather was mixed but decent and the countryside was lush and in full bloom. If you want to see wildflowers at their best, May – June is the best time to visit Fort William.
Come winter, we’re talking snow season and the Nevis range is a hugely popular destination for both skiers and snowboarders. However, unless you are an experienced hillwalker, you should avoid hillwalking in winter.
Getting to Fort Willliam by Train and Bus
By train
Fort William is one of the stops on the West Highland Railway from Glasgow. Thought to be one of the most scenic routes in the world, the train travels along the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond and through the bleak wilderness of Rannoch Moor.
The line splits at Crianlarich, with one branch going to the lovely town of Oban (one of my favourite places in Scotland) whilst the second veers northwest to Fort William.
The train journey from Glasgow to Fort William takes around 3 hours and 45 minutes.
On this trip to Scotland, I took the Caledonian Sleeper all the way from London Euston to Fort William. There’s something special about leaving London by night and waking up in the Scottish Highlands.
The train station at Fort William is just north of the town centre, adjacent to the main A82 road.
By bus
If you are setting out from destinations that aren’t on the West Highland Line, notably Inverness and Glen Coe, you will need to catch a bus. CityLink buses serve Fort William’s bus station, which is adjacent to the train station and next to an enormous Morrison’s supermarket.
Services between Glasgow and Fort William operate about eight times a day and the journey time is a little over three hours. Glasgow-bound buses also serve Glen Coe.
Buses run from Inverness around seven times a day. The journey time is a touch over two hours.
Where to Stay
Fort William has a range of places to stay, including hotels, holiday rentals and bed and breakfasts that line the main Achintore Road (A82) south of the town centre. If you don’t have a car, check where your B&B is located; some establishments are a considerable distance from town.
Premier Inn Fort William
I’m a fan of this British budget hotel which offers comfortable, if basic, accommodation at affordable prices in great locations. This Premier Inn is a solid budget choice – Fort William’s accommodation can be pricey in high season – located on the other side of the train and bus station.
Although the room was a little tired, it was clean and functional and offered unbeatable value.
>>> CLICK HERE FOR OTHER TRAVELLERS’ REVIEWS & RATES
Here are a few alternative accommodation options that I have found that are well worth considering
MacLean Guest House
This highly-rated guest house is in a great location, on the main road and is less than a 5-minute walk from the town centre and train and bus stations. Rooms have a fridge and tea/coffee-making facilities.
>>> CLICK HERE TO CHECK RATES & BOOK
Alexandra Hotel
This imposing 3-star hotel located between the train station and Fort William town centre features a guest lounge (with an open fire in season). Single rooms are available for those who are travelling alone.
>>> CLICK HERE TO CHECK RATES & BOOK
My Favourite Places to Eat in Fort William
Little Fort William punches above its weight when it comes to cafes and restaurants. Here are places that I tried and loved.
This was my favourite place to eat in Fort William. A cracking combination of friendly service, great ambience and first-rate food. My main of sea bass wrapped around a crab meat roulade on a bed of sweet potatoes and seasonal vegetables was outstanding.
Advance booking is recommended.
Address: 103 High Street, Fort William
Another highly recommended restaurant in Fort William, opposite The Ben Nevis. It has a small but perfectly formed menu, including excellent fish and chips and their own brew, Sandals & Sausage Dogs American Pale Ale.
As The Geographer doesn’t take bookings from June to September, get there early for a table or be prepared to wait.
Address: 88 High Street, Fort William
The Wildcat café is wildly popular for very good reasons. This guilt-free vegan restaurant has a carefully curated menu, excellent coffee – ask to try their filter coffee of the day – and super friendly staff.
Set yourself up for the day with their hearty bowl of porridge with cinnamon, apple and raisins.
Address: 21 High Street, Fort William
Morrison’s Supermarket Café
For a cheap, freshly cooked full Scottish breakfast and surprisingly good machine coffee.
Address: An Aird, Road (near the bus station and train station)
Solo Travel in Scotland
Scotland is one of the best solo travel destinations in the world.
From its lush rolling hills and mirror-like lakes to its blindingly white beaches, Scotland is home to some of the most striking and diverse landscapes to be found anywhere. It’s a walker’s and photographer’s paradise.
Scotland is relatively safe, the locals are very friendly and speak English. There is a wide variety of accommodation, from a thriving hostel scene and cosy bed & breakfasts to boutique and castle hotels.
It’s easy to get around. Whilst driving is the easiest way to explore Scotland, this is not for the faint-hearted. Some roads in the Highlands and islands are single lanes punctuated with passing places that you can pull into if necessary.
I travelled in Scotland without a car and managed just fine using buses, trains and day tours.
Scotland’s major towns and cities are linked by train and bus (Scottish Citylink runs long-distance express coach services).
I have taken day trips with the local Rabbie’s Tours who were excellent. Group sizes are small and the knowledge and humour of their drivers/guides are first-rate.
Thank you for reading my guide to visiting Fort William without a car
I hope that it helps you plan a car-free and trouble-free holiday. If you have found this article helpful, take a look at some of my other Scotland articles:
- A Perfect 3 Days in Inverness: Itinerary for First-Time Visitors
- 10 Best Day Trips from Inverness Without a Car
- 15 Easy Day Trips from Edinburgh by Train or Bus
- 14 Amazing Things to Do in Oban, Scotland in Two Days
- 7 Best Things to Do in Inveraray, Scotland
- 8 Best Things to Do in Tobermory, Mull
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About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.