Famous for its medieval cities, moules & frites and yummy chocolate, Belgium draws travellers to destinations like Brussels, Bruges and Ghent. Yet, hidden in plain sight along the North Sea coastline is Ostend (Oostende), a beach town that remains under the radar for many non-Belgians.
This is the jewel of West Flanders, a seaside resort that combines Belle Époque grandeur with world-class street art whilst retaining its roots as a fishing community. Its excellent fish and seafood restaurants and the absence of the overwhelming crowds of the more well-known destinations are other compelling reasons to visit Ostend.
Although it is an easy day trip from Brussels, I recommend spending at least one night here. I was chuffed with my decision to spend a weekend in Ostend, en route from Haarlem in the Netherlands to Tournai.
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A Weekend in Ostend in a Nutshell
DAY ONE
- Japanese Garden
- Stroll along the beach
- Stop at a seafood shack
- Street art trail
- Het James Ensorhuis
- Church of St. Peter and Paul
DAY TWO
- Mercator
- Napoleon Fort
- Ride the coastal tram
- Gelato at Maxzim
What to Do in Ostend
Relax in the Japanese Garden (Japanse Tuin)
I’m a pushover for a Japanese garden and Ostend’s Shin Kai Tei (Deep Sea Garden) is dreamy.
This tranquil oasis celebrates the long-standing friendship between Ostend and its Japanese sister city, Otsu. Designed by Japanese landscape architect Takayuki Inoue, the garden’s layout and design follow traditional Japanese principles, focusing on balance and harmony, and integrating natural elements like water, rocks and plants.
It is open on Saturday and Sunday and daily during school holidays from 10 am until 6 pm. Entry is free.
Stroll along Ostend Promenade and Beach
Ostend is beloved for its wide sandy beach.
The Royal Galleries (Gaanderijin) are close to the Japanese Garden. Built by King Leopold II at the start of the 20th Century, they connected the royal chalet, the Wellington Racecourse and the octagonal salon.
The seafront isn’t the loveliest in Europe – it was rebuilt after Ostend was pummelled by Second World War bombs – but public art adds welcome splashes of colour. At Zeehelden Plein there is an installation called Rock Strangers, massive red sculptures created by Arne Quinze.
Stop at a seafood shack
If you love eating seafood straight from the sea, you’ve come to the right place. Take your pick from one of the shacks lining Ostend’s promenade.
Ostend is famous for its grey shrimp croquettes but watch out for ravenous seagulls. One nearly made it away with my lunch.
Follow Ostend’s street art trail
From the street art of Shoreditch in my hometown of London to Malaga’s magnificent murals, I’m a huge urban art fan and this was an Ostend must-see for me. I wasn’t disappointed.
The Crystal Ship is Ostend’s annual street art festival, transforming the city into an open-air gallery. Renowned international and local artists create large-scale murals and art installations across the town’s buildings.
At the last count, there were almost 80 urban artworks across the city. Pick up a free leaflet at the Tourist Information office to follow Ostend’s street art trail. You can also download a self-guided tour onto your phone (the city-centre one takes around 90 minutes).
Get your cultural fix at Het James Ensorhuis
Visit the home of Ostend’s favourite son to understand the life and work of James Ensor. The celebrated artist lived and worked here from 1917 until his death in 1949.
Pay your respects at the Church of St. Peter and Paul
The Church of St. Peter and Paul (St-Petrus-en-Paulsuskerk) is in stark contrast to the rest of the largely modern downtown Ostend. But appearances can be deceptive.
In fact, this neo-Gothic church was consecrated in 1908. It is famous for its two sky-scraping spires and intricate stained-glass windows that depict scenes from Belgium’s religious history.
Step onboard The Mercator
Near the railway station is a beautifully restored three-masted schooner that once served as a Belgian training ship for naval cadets. The Mercator was launched in 1932 and circumnavigated the globe on scientific and diplomatic missions before being decommissioned in 1960.
Today, it is permanently docked in Ostend’s harbour, and you can roam around its decks to learn about history.
Board the free ferry to Fort Napoleon
Flanking the dunes behind the seashore on the eastern side of Ostend’s harbour is one of Europe’s best-preserved Napoleonic fortresses.
The hulking, star-shaped Fort Napoleon was completed in 1812 and considered so impenetrable that the garrison never exceeded 260 men. You can stroll its dank corridor in 15 minutes but the main draw is the structure itself.
To get to Fort Napoleon, catch the free passenger ferry from Montgomery Dock to Maritiemplein and walk for ten minutes. Alternatively, take the coastal tram to the “Duin en Zee” stop, from where it’s a signposted 5-10 minute walk.
Take Europe’s longest tram journey
This was my favourite thing to do in Ostend.
The Kusttram runs along 42 miles of the Belgian coast, from Knokke in the east to De Panne in the west, in 140 minutes. Trams depart every 10 – 20 minutes during the day and I recommend buying a 24-hour pass to allow you to jump on and off at will.
Cradling the coastline, this is a super scenic journey. Being a completist I travelled its entire length, but the stretch between Ostend and Middelkerke was easily the prettiest section.
You can alight at Raversijde to walk along Atlantikwall, sixty bunkers from WWI and WWII.
Windswept Blankenberge has a glorious beach, sadly blighted by high-rise developments along the promenade. Its saving grace is the gorgeous Belle Epoque properties in the town.
I had a superb fish dinner at Villa de Torre next to the quaint tram station at De Haan.
Queue for gelato at Maxzim
Your reward for queueing at this hugely popular gelateria is delicious ice cream made according to a traditional Sicilian recipe ( I recommend stracciatella flavour). Savour it over a sensational sunset for a perfect end to your weekend in Ostend.
Getting There & Getting Around
Ostend is 75 minutes by train from Brussels. You may have to change train at Ghent. Check timetables and prices at Omio.
From the UK, Brussels is just over two hours by train from London St. Pancras International. Upgrade to Eurostar Standard Premier Class for a travel treat.
Ostend is a walkable city. Unless you choose to take the coastal tram out of town, you won’t need to use public transport
Where to Stay
I enjoyed my stay at Mercure Oostende. It is located five minutes from the beach and serves a superb breakfast (prosecco was included when I stayed ).
If this doesn’t meet your needs, consider the beachfront C-Hotels Andromeda. This 4-star hotel has an indoor pool and spa and other travellers praise its excellent breakfasts (included in the room rate).
Upstairs Hotel is a good budget choice. This funky hotel has a shared lounge – which has an indoor slide – and a terrace and bar.
Where to Next in Belgium?
I hope that you enjoy your weekend in Ostend. It may not be Belgium’s prettiest town but it has a superb beach and is refreshingly tourist-light.
If you have found this helpful, take a look at my other Belgium guides before you leave, including this one-week Belgium itinerary.
BRUSSELS: Discover what to see in Brussels and take a day trip to Mechelen.
GHENT: Get the lowdown on what to do in Ghent and if you should buy the Ghent City Card. Book the best Ghent accommodation and do a DIY chocolate tour of Bruges.
LEUVEN: Find out what to see in Leuven and relax in Belgium’s oldest botanical garden.
HASSELT: I spill the beans on why I loved Hasselt, not least because it’s home to the Jenever Museum.
DINANT & NAMUR: Discover the best things to do in Namur and how to spend a day in Dinant. Short on time? Here’s how to decide between Namur and Dinant.
Happy travels!
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About Bridget
Bridget Coleman has been a passionate traveller for more than 30 years. She has visited 70+ countries, most as a solo traveller.
Articles on this site reflect her first-hand experiences.
To get in touch, email her at hello@theflashpacker.net or follow her on social media.